Grooming the Wire FoxTerrier
GROOMING THE WIRE FOX TERRIER
This will help your groom your Wire as a pet only. Show grooming the Wire Fox Terrier is an expensive and long drawn out procedure.
EQUIPMENT NEEDED: (MANDATORY)
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT :
Mats: clumps of heavily tangled hair in which a comb cannot go through
Furnishings: name for leg hair
Stripping Knife: serrated grooming tool used in hand stripping and coat carding . There are many types but I only recommend a Magnet knife for pet grooming
Hand Stripping: The pulling out or plucking out of coat to promote wiry coat growth.
Carding: using the magnet stripping knife to remove soft undercoat and bring in texture and color
Pads : bottom of a dog's foot
Anal Gland: glands on both sides of the anal opening
Quick: fleshy area of the nail which if cut into will bleed
Beard : whiskers and eye brow hair
Roughing out: clipping coat to form a pattern prior to bathing. once the dog is bathed and dry you finish your trim to make your dog picture perfect.
Clipper burn: a rash or sore caused by clipping. Usually caused by forcing a clipper through the coat but can also occur when blades are overheated and on dogs with sensitive skin. They clear up by using an antibiotic cream or Sulfadine. If you suspect you may have burned your pet, bath him with a medicated shampoo. After shave lotion may also help.
Before you begin to clip you must thoroughly comb out your dog. This is done both with a wire slicker brush and a comb. Brush the leg hair towards the foot and then straight up towards the elbow. Don't forget under the legs near the chest, the back parts of the leg in the groin area and between the toes . Then use your comb. If the comb doesn't easily go through the hair it is matted and the mats must be removed. There are sprays that will help break up the mat. You can use thinning shears also but you may leave a hole in the area of the mat. The best way is to use your fingers to break up the mat then brush the area until your comb goes through. If you brush your dog properly on a weekly basis this step should not be needed.
Next comb out the beard. Take a hold of the skin on the underside of the lower jaw on the opposite side of the beard you are combing out, then reverse and do the other side. This keeps the head still and if he objects to having his bead combed you will still have control of the head.
Next clean the ears. If there is hair in the ear canal puff some ear powder in and use your fingers to pull out the hair. The ear powder will make this very easy. If the ears appear swollen, red, pussy or very smelly take him to the Veterinarian . If the ears are just dirty an ear cleaner will remove excess wax and dirt. Squirt and massage the ear cleaner into the ear canal and wipe away excess wax and ear cleaner with cotton balls.
Roughed out body and neck :
If your dog is not extremely dirty or flea ridden you may start to clipper him. If you don't have a grooming table you may need the help of another person until your dog is trained to stand still. The grooming arm would have acted as your third hand.
First trim the neck all the way around , continue down the back, clip the hair down the rib cage but leave the chest hair.
You will also clip the shoulders down to the elbow, the front of the chest also even with the elbow ( please don't leave a puffy plume on the front of the chest , some pet groomers do this along with a fringe along the rib cage. It is incorrect and looks stupid).
Trim the entire tail.
The best blade to use is either a #10 for a short smooth look or a # 7 for more hair . This blade is generally referred to as a strip blade and is best for a dog with a good textured coat rather than a soft mushy coat. Never push or force the clipper. Hold it lightly and it will glide through the coat. If you try to push it through the blade will leave clipper marks, jamb up or even clipper burn your dog. You can practice clipping on a piece of fake fur to get the feel of your clipper.
The best blade for the head is a #15 . Clip from the corner of the eye to the edge of the mouth. Shave the top of the head taking care not to cut off the eye brow. The eyebrow sits on top of two bones. you can feel the lumps just before the head flattens. Shave the entire ear inside out.
Now trim the belly and inside of the legs in the groin area with your #10 blade. Don't go past the start of the rib cage. With males shave their penis and with females be very careful not to clipper off a nipple. It can happen. If this area intimidates you leave it alone.
You may put cotton in the ear canal to keep water out. Use warm water and always lather and rinse the dog twice. The first lather removes excess dirt and the second brightens and whitens . Wet him down prior to applying the shampoo. At this time empty the anal glands. This is done by applying light pressure at the base of the anus and drawing your fingers up and towards you. You should get a very smelly discharge come out. If the glands are hard or the discharge is really thick or pussy see your Veterinarian. You may want to skip this part of the bath and just have your Veterinarian pump them at your annual checkup. Use only top quality dog shampoos and conditioners . I recommend either Bio Groom or Nature's Specialty products.
Begin at the head and work to the rear. Be careful not to get soap in his eyes. If he has fleas use a flea shampoo and apply Bio Spot or Advantage when his grooming is complete. If he has skin problems (too oily, too dry) use a medicated shampoo designed for that problem. Always follow the product's instructions.
Blow dying is best. It will straighten the coat and give a more finished look. Towel dry and use your hair dyer. If you have invested in a Force dog dryer and grooming bench it will make you task 100 % easier and cut your drying time in half.
FINISHING THE TRIM
Start by trimming the hair between the pads of the foot. This is important as debris such as sand , small pebbles, burrs and foxtails can get in there and mat the fur. At the very least this can cause foot discomfort but can also cause funguses to form, infected sores and foxtails to enter the leg and cause major problems. Always use a blunt end scissor and proceed with caution. Once the pads are trimmed use your finishing scissors to trim around the outside of the foot to make the foot less shaggy.
Next trim the chest hair. Try to make the chest look deep by trimming the hair nearest the start of the rib cage shorter and taper it down to the front of the chest to give the illusion of a deep chest.
Trimming the leg hair can be tricky. You want to blend in the longer hair of the leg into the shorter body hair without making gouges or leaving chaps. Use your clipper with a #7 blade and very lightly skim the surface of the hair until you blend the long hair with the short. Use your finishing scissors to give angulation to the back legs by scissoring the hair in the front of the thigh into a smooth curve and scissor the rear near the tail and hip joints and remove unruly hairs on the back and inside of the leg.
The front legs can be scissored to make them look more like posts without a large abundance of fluffy hair.
FINISHING THE HEAD
Scissor a line from the corner of the eye to the mouth. Then comb the beard forward and scissor under the chin again leaving less hair nearer the top of the jaw and the longest part of the beard at the end of the jaw The eyebrow should not be too large. Scissor from the corner of the outside of the eye towards the center of the muzzle The hair from the top of the muzzle to the nose should be scissored to give a straight flat appearance . The final touch is to scissor around the ears to remove any excess hair and give a smooth appearance.
It may take you several trims to get a hold on your grooming quality.
I had a customer that had me do the first trim and then she followed my pattern. She trimmed her dog every two weeks for about 6 months now she has people stop her on the street to ask her where she gets her dog groomed.
My model is Cosmo . He is the proud owner of two humans Rodger Kern and Jackie Green.
Cosmo's leg hair was taken down shorter for the summer. His back was done with a #10 blade.
ADDITIONAL SUPPLIES FOR YOUR WIRE FOX TERRIER
Bio Spot flea and tick killer by the Farnam Co (better than Program and Advantage)
Bio- Groom or Holiday ear powder
C-Derm therapeutic ear cleanser
Holiday Cologne or Bio Groom Cologne
Guillotine type nail clipper and quick stop septic powder
TRAINING AND WALKING SUPPLIES
6 ft leather lead (I donít recommend nylon)
Metal choke chain (no more than 2 inches slack when pulled tight)
20 foot long lunge line
Cheap collar to start and then a good rolled English leather collar when full grown
Good quality metal ID tags (put on Microchip #, Avid toll free # and your phone #)
Doggie fecal disposal kits
Bio-Groom ear mite treatment
Bitter Apple for chewing (cream type works best)
Natureís Miracle for urine stains
Any fuzzy type toy
Knotted rope toys
Solid white rawhide (donít not use compressed rawhide. It looks mosaic. Little pieces all stuck together)
Range Riders Pork Chews by the Scott Co
Nyla bones (buy a cheap one to start. Some dogs donít like them)
Good quality latex toys
Wilderness Jerky Treats, (great for training treats)
Exercise Pen (36 in with a top)
Doggie Seat Belts
Stainless Steel Dishes or ceramic dishes
Rabbit Bottle (not the one for dogs)
Doggie life preserver
We do NOT recommend the following products
Harvest Chews, Booda Velvets, Greenies
Tennis Mania by Vo-Toys
Pigs ears and animal hoofs
Any raw hide product not made by a well known company
Breeder Choice dog foods
Copyright © 1999 - 2013 Delayre Kennel
Copyright © 1999 - 2013 Delayre Kennel